A
Stroll Through Time
Buffalo, Wyoming
There are few towns in Wyoming whose main thoroughfare
reflects history more than Buffalo's Main Street. The street wanders
lazily down a hill, across rippling Clear Creek and up another hill
no matter which way a visitor is headed. Visitors often speculate
that the street was named after the herds of bison that trailed
to the sparkling waters of Clear Creek to drink. The truth is the
curve in the street had nothing to do with wandering animals. In
1878, six years before Buffalo actually became a town, a local merchant
decided he wasn't getting his share of the traffic coming into the
rapidly growing settlement which sprang up to accommodate the shopping
needs of Fort McKinney personnel. So, the tenacious merchant asked
a friend to bring in a bull team and change the dirt path slightly
to go by his store. The curve remains to this day.
At the confluence of the road coming in from
the fort site to the west and the north/south street is the Johnson
County's red brick courthouse. The oldest building in downtown,
it was built in 1884 and still has it original exterior. A two story
Neo-classic building, it is listed in the National Register of Historic
Places. In the early days the top of the building bore a wooden
white cupola. On the east side of the courthouse is an emblem of
a rising sun representing the beckoning of the dawn of a new day.
In 1942, a thoughtful resident who declared the trees had outgrown
her lawn donated two small spruce trees to the county. They bring
a touch of nature to the northeastern side of the building reminding
visitors of the proximity of thousands of evergreens growing in
the Bighorn Mountains just a few miles to the west. Next door to
the courthouse is the Jim Gatchell Museum of the West. Built in
1909 as the Johnson County Carnegie Library one building evokes
history inside and out. The museum is an integral part of the community
and draws visitors from around the world.
A short walk down Main Street is the famed Occidental
Hotel. In the summer of 1879 a party of men on the Bozeman Trail
stopped for lunch on the banks of Clear Creek. One of the men, Charles
E. Buell cooked a meal for his companions. He liked the area along
the stream, so he pitched his tent there. He was hardly settled
in when a group of miners stopped by and asked to board with him
for a few days. His cooking skills were such that he even prepared
meals for them. One of the men asked Buell if there was something
that would serve as a bank where their mined gold could be store.
Buell led the miner to the back of his tent, pulled off a buffalo
robe and revealed a hole in the ground. The gold was deposited therein
and the robe was put back in place. The hole is remembered in legend
as Buffalo's first bank. Whether it was this incident which prompted
the entrepreneurial Buell to consider erecting a hotel is not certain,
but it is known that he soon replaced his tent with a more permanent
structure. In a short time this hostelry became the stage stop for
the new Rock Creek and Junction stage. The building, which also
housed Buffalo's first post office, was constructed of logs hauled
down from the mountains. It had two storied and was 24 by 28 feet,
with a shingled roof. There were six bedrooms upstairs and a lobby,
dining room and kitchen on the lower level. Later two sets of rooms
were added on in a lean-to-fashion --they could be entered without
going through the main complex. Out in front was a traditional hitching
post. In the fall of 1880, the pioneer was finished and ready for
occupancy. The Occidental soon became the center of activity, the
stopping off place for new arrivals and for public meetings and
social gatherings. When Johnson County was formed in 1881, the new
hotel was the site of the newly appointed commissioners. The preserved
hotel registers ring with celebrity showing the names of Buffalo
Bill (William F. Cody), Theodore Roosevelt, Generals Sheridan and
Cook, and even that naughty fem fatale of the West, Calamity Jane.
But the Occidental is probably best known for playing host to the
well-known author, Owen Wister. Wister is said to have placed the
climactic shoot-out scene from his famous western novel, The Virginian
in front of the hotel. Wister spent a great deal of time at the
Occidental when he came to Buffalo.
For many years there existed between the south
side of the hotel and the north bank of Clear Creek, a popular eating-place
known as the Busy Bee. No longer in existence, the small diner was
famed not only for the atmosphere where customers could peer through
the window into the crystal clear and fish-filled waters of Clear
Creek, but also for the home-cooked food and genial rapport with
the Bee's owners. The Main Street Bridge became famous when it was
discovered to be "only place in the United States where you
could legally make a U-turn on a bridge." That has also changed,
but the memories of the Busy Bee's pies and burgers live on in the
mouth-watering memories of those who patronized the place.
Just south of the bridge is a red sandstone building
that was built in 1898. Beginning in 1907 it housed the First National
Bank until the devastating flood of 1912 raising Clear Creek's water
10 feet above the sidewalk. If you look closely on the side of the
building facing the creek, you will see a mark indicating how high
the water was. For decades the building housed the popular bar known
as the 21 Club and is now a steakhouse.
On down the street is a sports clothing and tack
business that was built when the town was young and became known
as the Capitol Hotel and Saloon. It was known as "the finest
inn this side of Cheyenne." The owner, William H. Zindel installed
new plumbing in his saloon. He included an automatic bar pump that
delivered beer, ale and soda directly from kegs or fountains below
through ice-packed coils into faucets at the bar. Zindel had the
forethought to install a trough of
running water around the bar for the convenience of tobacco-chewing
customers. Zindel's place was famous for its cleanliness. It was
the day of the "nickel schooner" of beer and free midnight
lunches that included such unusual fare as possum and pickled pig's
feet. In a corral behind the saloon Zindel kept elk or other interesting
creatures for the benefit of his customers.
Just east of the intersection of Fort and North Main streets is
a mini-mall, recently erected on the site where Robert Foote's Mercantile
once stood. Foote, like Zindel had a penchant for catering to his
customers. He paid special attention to the ladies who shopped at
his store, even going so far as to build a veranda onto one side
of the building so the ladies would have a place to rest and enjoy
female camaraderie for a time. But there were no ladies around in
April of 1892, when the simmering factions of small settlers and
affluent cattlemen reached its climax in what would go down in history
as the Johnson County Cattle War/Invasion. Foote mounted his celebrated
black horse and dashing up and down the streets with his white beard
flowing in the wind, exhorted the citizens to defend their town.
He even threw open his store inviting the defenders to load up with
any needed supplies. Foote's patriotism was a plus factor in the
ultimate outcome of the conflict.
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